Kazakhstan

My first visit to Kazakhstan was in September 2018. I had just finished the worst hike i’ve ever done (the story here) and done a long and difficult border crossing (here) to arrive in Almaty. The only thing I wanted was to recover and get over my illness and Almaty provided the perfect environment for that. I enjoyed as many of the superb food options as I could but didn’t do all that much except Big Almaty Lake and then caught the train up to Astana (or Nur Sultan now). Astana is impressive and I had an interesting day there but didn’t connect with the city in a way that would have made me go back. Instead I headed further north to catch the first of my Transsiberian trains into the East.

The second visit in August 2019 was very different. I had set myself the goal of watching a rocket launch from Baikonur so having crossed the border to Shymkent I headed north west to Toretam. I’ve written a longer article about this amazing journey below. I then returned to Almaty for a period of relaxation, food, cheap vodka and a road trip to Charyn Canyon, Kaindy Lake and the Kolsoi Lakes.

I loved spending this time in the country and Almaty in particular and would highly recommend it to anyone doing a trip through Central Asia or who wants to find out more about the region beyond the appalling parodies that it is sadly best known for in the West.

View across Charyn Canyon, Almaty, Kazakhstan
Mosque in Astana/Nur-Sultan, Kazakhstan
Ali at Big Almaty Lake, Almaty, Kazakhstan

Where to Visit

  • Almaty – Enjoy the food, culture and nightlife in the biggest city
  • Astana/Nur-Sultan – See the bizarre and impressive constructions in the new capital
  • Charyn Canyon – Visit the second biggest canyon in the world for rather less than you would pay in the USA
  • Kolsoi Lakes– Visit the picturesque mountain lakes and enjoy a stunning hike
  • Kaindy Lake– Fight for your place to take pictures in an area changed heavily by instagram

Other Articles

  • Immigration Card – summary of the confusion of this legacy system

Last Updated: October 2019

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One of the biggest problem I have found with online travel information is that it becomes obsolete very quickly. If you have read anything here that you think may be incorrect, incomplete or out of date then please send me a message using the form below.

Also I would be delighted if anyone is able to send in further tips and logisitcal information that I can add to this page to make it as helpful as possible. Thanks everyone!

    Alistair Roweth
    Alistair RowethTraveller & Tutor
    I've spent more than 2 years travelling around the world. I hope you enjoy my attempt to write down and pass on some of the information that I have learned along the way.

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