Fanjingshan is a highly impressive mountain, topped with bizarre columns of rocks. These natural formations evidently were of great interest to monks back in the 7th Century who decided to not only climb to the top of the mountain with all their building materials but also to carve steps into a pillar of rock and build the impressive temple right at the top of it! Even by the standards of Chinese temples in strange and inaccessible places, this one really stands out!
The surrounding hills and cliffs are covered with forests and contain all sorts of wildlife. I saw some Tibetan macaques there but according to the signs there are also salamander, black bears and clouded leopards in the huge area. It is relatively untouched by humans except for the temples and paths along the ridge (and the cable car of course).
The strangest thing to me about this place is that it seems to be a black hole of travel information as you’ll gather if you read more. I don’t have the faintest idea why.
Basic Travel Information
- Province – Guizhou
- Route there – bus from fenghuang (best), high speed train from guiyang
- Duration: half a day in winter, 2 nights summer
- Recommended: In summer from fenghuang definitely! In winter it’s an expensive trip but the view is still incredible
Bring your Passport
My Story
I had very little idea of what to expect from this area, I’d never met anyone, Chinese or foreign, who had mentioned having been there.
Despite seemingly being popular and highly visited by Chinese tourists there is little accommodation listed on booking, hostelworld or agoda and none of it budget. Trip has more options but no guarantees that they will accept foreign guests. The transport information is limited and my usual sources were pretty much useless. I’ve never had this much uncertainty for somewhere this known and developed and I don’t understand it at all, especially given the mountain’s proximity to Fenghuang and even to Guilin or Zhangjiajie.
The only reason it had ever even made it on to my list at all was because of a British article sent to me by my parents!
I had looked into coming here back on September when I was in Fenghuang but decided on a relaxing day there instead. This time in December I had to go for it.
Getting there
The first step was a high-speed train from Guiyang to Tongren, nothing hard there. Then finding the bus station to get closer to the mountain. Again this was made very easy by some lovely large glowing red characters for “Bus station” on a rooftop opposite the train station.
Once in Jiangkou there were taxis offering to get me to Fanjingshan but that would have been expensive, as would the accomodation there. Instead I asked in a couple of hotels that offered me excellent deals but were still more expensive than I wanted. Then I found one I’d seen listed on trip.com and managed to get a reasonably cheap room.
Going up
I set off as early as I could so I would have time to hike but sadly no joy. When buying the ticket for the scenic area I was told the hiking path was closed due to ice and I had to buy the cable car.
My disappointment lasted until part way up the cable car when the incredible view across the frosted trees and up to the peak of Fanjingshan was revealed.
The views from the summit were incredible in every direction and I explored as much of the top as was open, sadly not including either peak or the temples on them. A guard told me that one would open at 12 but I couldn’t tell if the main temple on the rock pillar would as well. That option would have meant staying up in the freezing cold and wind for hours before exploring further, then having nothing to do for the afternoon. I decided to head down in time for a train route on to Guilin instead.
Maybe I could have seen more, definitely I should have come here back in September. But the views were stunning and I’m glad I went, if only to be able to advise others on how do it better.
Hiking Details
Since I was unable to hike up Fanjingshan the best I can do here is to provide the map of the route so that you have it if you go.
The green line was closed in winter.
The red line is the main hike that was also closed at the start of the off season due to ice.
The blue line has to be done by bus.
This map is not to scale at all.
Logistics & Prices
Getting in:
- First get to Tongren
- Bus from Fenghuang – first bus 7:30, 1hr20 25rmb
- High speed trains from Guiyang – train 11:07, 15:25, 16:05, 18:00, 1hr40, 147rmb
It is possible to arrive at Tongren South Station which also has trains from Huaihua, Hengshan and Changsha
There are buses from Tongren South Station to Fanjingshan Visitors Centre 11:00, 14:30. Other than these you first have to get a bus to Tongren
Getting to the Scenic Area:
- Regular buses between Tongren and Jiangkou every 30 mins until 18:10. Tourist bus station directly across from train station
- Regular buses between Jiangkou and Fanjingshan Visiors Centre every 30 mins until 17:30
- Taxi from Jiangkou to Fanjingshan, opening bid of 80rmb but this could definitely be haggled lower
- Irregular buses from Tongren to Fanjingshan Visitors Centre 7:30, 8:30, 9:30, 10:30
Inside the Scenic Area:
- Entry fee: 110rmb peak, 90rmb off season – Passport Required
- Bus: 20rmb return (mine was included with cable car for some reason)
- Cable car: 160rmb return, 90rmb one way
Getting out:
- Last bus from Tongren to Fenghuang 16:30
- Train from Tongren to Guiyang 13:23, 17:25, 18:10, 20:15
Hostel Recommendation
I could not find any good options online except trip.com which does not guarantee that foreign guests will be able to stay. Despite the limited amount online there is a huge range available. There were lots of touts for hotels outside Tongren Station, plenty of options in Jiangkou and more around the Visitors Centre.
There is a hostel listed in Tongren but it was apparently closed for redecorating during my visit.
I stayed in Jiangkou Jiangcheng Hotel which was reasonable quality for 80rmb per night
Recommendations
It all depends on the weather and which paths are open. I was there on December 2nd, at the very start of the off season and the hiking route up was already closed due to ice. It may be variable with the weather but I wouldn’t rely on being able to hike during the off season. I could not find a way to check online.
My recommendations are therefore different for peak season and off season.
Option 1 (peak season, assuming hiking route open)
Stay nearby for 2 nights to give yourself the full day to hike the mountain
- Get to Tongren
- Stay overnight in Tongren/Jiangkou or Visitors centre area. Ideally you want to stay as close to the entrance as possible
- Get up early and be in the park when it opens at 8am
- Get the sightseeing bus, you are not allowed to walk on the road in peak season and the main hike is further up
- Hike up, it will be a long hard climb, entirely stairs but it looked like a fantastic route
- Explore the top
- Cable car down
- Bus back to visitor centre
- Bus to accomodation
- Leave the next day
- Costs – estimate of 260rmb plus accomodation, food and transport into and out of Tongren.
This will be by far the most rewarding way to visit Fanjingshan. It is likely to be much busier at the summit during peak season.
Option 2 (off season, assuming hiking route closed)
Day trip from Fenghuang in winter which will be a reasonable price.
- First bus 7:30 from Fenghuang to tongren tourist bus station
- 9:30 bus to Fanjingshan visitors centre
- Bus and cable car up the mountain
- Explore the top for a couple of hours
- Cable car and bus down. 1pm at the latest
- Bus to tongren
- 16:30 bus back to Fenghuang (consider booking in advance)
- Total cost 364rmb
Great views in winter but not much time available to explore the top.
To have a lot longer at the summit you could stay the night in Tongren before returning to Fenghuang or moving on. You could also get a late train onwards to Guiyang
Option 3 (off season, assuming hiking route closed)
Trip from Guiyang in winter. This is closest to what I did on my trip.
- High speed train to Tongren
- Stay in Tongren so you can store luggage at hotel or…
- Bus to Visitors centre
- Bus and cable car up the mountain
- Explore the top. You do not need to be up there early as several areas will only be open after 12:00 in icy conditions
- Cable car and bus down.
- Bus back to Tongren
- High speed train back to Guiyang
- Total cost 608rmb + accomodation
Great views on clear days in winter but pretty expensive for what you get.
Places Nearby & Trip Planning
Include in any trip around Guizhou or Hunan provinces along with the following:
- Guiyang
- Fenghuang
- Zhangjiajie
- Guilin
When to Visit
All seasons are possible
Summer may be too humid and hazy for clear views
Winter the hiking path is likely to be closed but the frosted trees make for an excellent view
Highly dependent on the local forecast
Last Updated: January 2020
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