Dominica is a mountainous island covered in lush rainforests located between the French islands of Martinique and Guadeloupe. It is a superb destination for eco-tourism, hiking and witnessing the volcanic activity still taking place on the island. It also has the most unpredictable weather in the Caribbean with intermittent rainstorms occurring most days even through the dry season.
In 2015 Tropical Storm Erika caused immense damage to Dominica, but nothing compared to what happened in 2017 when the island suffered a direct hit from Hurricane Maria. An estimated 90% of buildings on the island were destroyed, the infrastructure was ruined and much of the rainforest was stripped bare. The people on the island are still trying to recover from the catastrophe, as is much of the vegetation and wildlife.
Dominica was my final major stop in the Caribbean but I will definitely be back. It fits so much better with my preferred style of travelling.
Basic Travel Information
- Location: Leeward Islands
- Status: Independent Country
- Languages: English, Domincan Creole, French
- Currency: East Caribbean Dollar
- Route there: Ferry from Guadeloupe of Martinique
- Recommended: Without a doubt! Its a natural paradise with stunning hikes, forests and coastlines to explore
My Story
Dominica was one of my absolute favourite islands in the Caribbean, largely thanks to the incredible eco-lodge that I stayed in and the fantastic hiking that was available in the surrounding area.
I was met at the airport by the owner of the lodge, a lovely English man who had been running the place for 12 years and was full of stories about the island, the area, the effects of the hurricane and the effort to rebuild. The lodge itself was entirely wiped out and he has been rebuilding ever since.
There is a stark reminder of the damage as the road bridges were all swept away so the lodge’s valley is now only accessible by zipline or wading through strong rivers.
Tragedy aside, this is the coolest way of arriving at a hostel or getting back from a day trip of any place I’ve ever stayed! The lodge itself is wonderful with comfortable dorms, tents, hammocks and gardens under the cover of the rainforest. There is also superb food prepared by the staff, which is a good thing as its a tough hike to the nearest shop!
Everything on Dominica is green! The rainforest is all over the mountains, dense, lush and with rivers and waterfalls all over the place. I had an amazing few days hiking with other guests and volunteers from the lodge although the frequent heavy rain showers and swollen rivers often made the hikes difficult. We normally returned drenched in either water or sweat and completely exhausted. Many of the trails ran right from the lodge but it wasn’t hard to reach anywhere on the island. The buses are cheap and reasonably reliable but hitchhiking here was easier than just about anywhere in the world. Everyone picks you up, often before you even ask, especially if the rain looks like its about to become torrential!
I joined other travellers and volunteers from the lodge on hikes around the area along the overgrown forest trails. Every view is incredible and little crabs scurry away from you all along the path. Its essential to pack waterproofs though because the island gets a huge amount of rain and you are guaranteed to get drenched at some point on your hike. The weather can also be a problem as many hikes aren’t safe when the rivers swell and sometimes the showers are so constant that you can’t do much with your day. Luckily a hammock and some beers is all I need and I wrote nearly all of these Caribbean articles while watching the incredibly heavy downpour right next to me.
I loved this island and will definitely go back. Its one of the few islands that I feel is actually geared towards my preferred type of backpacking. There are several more hiking areas, the remaining Carib region in the northeast and the beaches along the west coast that would all be worth exploring.
Brief History
I was completely unaware of any of the history of the Caribbean Islands when I visited. While travelling around and writing these articles I became curious and decided to include a brief history of each. I hope you find it interesting.
Like most of the region Dominica was inhabited by the Caribs who had driven out the Arawak before the arrival of Europeans. Unlike other islands however Dominica became a haven for indigenous peoples who had been forced off other nearby islands by settlers and could take cover in its dense jungles. In 1660 the French and British agreed that Dominica and St Vincent should be left to the Carib people rather than colonised but the island’s natural resources changed that quickly. The French settled in 1690 to harvest timber and eventually develop coffee plantations. The British conquered the island during the 7-year war in 1761 and maintained control despite attempts from the French and resistance from the settlers. Dominica became a fully independent country in 1978.
Dominica is one of the poorest islands in the Caribbean with most of its economy highly vulnerable to weather conditions. The dominating industry used to be agriculture and bananas in particular. Tourism is important to the economy but since it is a volcanic island with few beaches this sector did not develop nearly as quickly as on most Caribbean islands. It gets amongst the fewest foreign tourists of any territory in the region.
Logistics
Dominica only has one commercial airport which is on the opposite side of the island to the capital and main places to stay. It can only accomodate small planes so you have to come here via another island in the Caribbean, such as Antigua.
There are regular ferry connections to Guadeloupe and Martinique on the Express des Iles ferries. The link for the ferries is here: https://www.express-des-iles.fr/
Getting around the island is very easy with the little local minibuses on the main roads. It is also the easiest place to hitchhike that I’ve ever visited. Be aware that traffic and buses are rare on Sundays so it can be much harder to get around.
Places Nearby & Trip Planning
Dominica and the surrounding islands are well connected by ferry so you can also visit the following nearby regions:
Also see my main article: Travelling in the Caribbean
When to Visit
Dominica can be very severely affected by the Caribbean hurricane season which runs between June and November
High season is December – March and Dominica is busier and more expensive during this time although not as much as some other islands.
No matter when you visit there is likely to be heavy rain showers throughout your trip. Make sure you have packed waterproof hiking clothes that are also loose fitting as it will be extremely humid as well.
Further Information
These websites were my favourite sources of general information for this location:
Hostel Recommendation – 3 Rivers Eco Lodge
I can’t recommend this place enough, it was one of the best places that I’ve ever stayed. It is a genuine eco lodge which is steadily rebuilding after the hurricane and is a wonderful place to stay while hiking in the surrounding rainforests.
Check out their website here: https://www.3riversdominica.com/
Last Updated: May 2020
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